At the Bourse de Commerce in Paris, Anthony Vaccarello unveiled Saint Laurent’s Men’s Summer 2026 collection, set against an installation by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot called clinamen, where porcelain bowls floated and bumped in a circular water basin.
The collection felt calm and thoughtful, mirroring the quiet grace of the setting.Vaccarello drew inspiration from the idea of escaping to a place between Paris and Fire Island, where elegance meets desire.
He paid tribute to a lost generation of artists like Stanton, Angus, and Ellis, who expressed hidden emotions, and to Yves Saint Laurent, who stepped back in 1974 before returning with fresh creativity.This time, Vaccarello moved away from dark, nighttime vibes and embraced the clear honesty of daylight.
The clothes were simple, with no pretense—light and present. The shapes were tailored but easy, with cinched waists and broad shoulders that didn’t feel heavy. Fabrics like silk and nylon flowed softly over the body.The colors were subtle: soft sand, pale ochre, salt, dry moss, and pool blue, hinting at nature without being obvious.
There were nods to the shorts Yves Saint Laurent wore in his youth, but nothing felt like a throwback—just a continuation.The clothes were understated, sensual without being showy. They didn’t demand attention but suggested meaning quietly, like the bowls in the installation tracing delicate paths.
Saint Laurent’s Summer 2026 menswear isn’t about looking back or making bold statements. It’s a calm, elegant step forward, defined by simplicity, clarity, and a subtle charm that speaks for itself.
