From its earliest days, Saint Laurent has been defined by a purity of line, silhouettes that seem to have been sketched with only a few pencil strokes. That spirit remains at the heart of Anthony Vaccarello’s collection, which returns to the house’s founding idea of simplicity through garments stripped of unnecessary detail.
Here, decoration gives way to construction. Fabrics and precise tailoring shape each piece, with forms and volumes emerging from cut and technique rather than ornament or padding. The collection moves with clarity, its silhouettes reduced to their essence.
Ample stone-washed skirts paired with leather blousons introduce an intriguing ambiguity, while a concise colour palette brings depth to the collection’s clean lines. Saturated interpretations of Saint Laurent’s signature shades reinforce the sense of precision that runs throughout.
Texture becomes an area of experimentation. Stretch fabrics meet guipure, couture textiles are distressed, and cigaline silk printed with the house’s iconic animal and floral motifs is submerged in silicone, creating a technical finish that feels entirely new.
The collection’s minimalism is balanced by carefully considered accessories. Pointed shoes are adorned with a satin square rose, while jewellery is crafted from rock crystal, the lucky stone favoured by Yves Saint Laurent.
The setting extends this mineral world. A grand oval of onyx anchors the presentation, while luminous walls evoke both impenetrability and hidden depth. Their rich patterns become a reflection of human complexity and reinforce the collection’s otherworldly atmosphere.
Summer 2027 menswear and the luxury of absence
“Nobody is trying to seduce you. What makes them seductive is that they do not need to.”
That idea forms the starting point for Anthony Vaccarello’s Summer 2027 men’s collection, a meditation on the constant desire for more drama, more noise and more attention, and on what happens when that impulse is deliberately refused.
Across forty looks, restraint becomes an act of seduction. Absence itself is treated as a form of luxury. Saint Laurent tailoring proposes a new sense of discernment through a three-button jacket cut higher on the body and paired with narrow flat-fronted or softly pleated trousers.
Familiar garments are revisited through proportion and precision. The waistcoat and the ribbed V-neck sweater acquire renewed presence, while athletic blousons are rendered unexpectedly delicate in technical taffeta. Shoes are sculpted, sheer and polished to a high gloss.
Gold emerges as a central gesture throughout the collection. It is not presented as an overt sign of luxury but as a way of transforming the utilitarian trench into something extraordinary while remaining practical.
The palette remains grounded in grey, brown, black and beige, interrupted by flashes of orange, ochre, claret, lime, powder blue and shimmering gold.
Figures who inspired the collection
Throughout the collection, Vaccarello looked to figures who turned restraint into a form of expression. Writer Marguerite Duras found meaning in what remained unsaid. Tina Chow embraced reduction rather than excess through her legendary style. And the fictional figure of Tom Ripley concealed a far more complicated interior life beneath an outward calm.
Summer 2027 is not simply a rejection of stylistic excess. It also rejects the urge to always know, always speak and always see, returning instead to the pleasures of the unknown, the unseen and the unspoken.
An immersive landscape of fog
The idea of absence extends into the presentation itself. Models move through Cloud #07156, the immersive fog installation created by Fujiko Nakaya, in a choreographed performance lasting sixteen minutes.
Emerging, disappearing and reappearing within a luminous landscape of mist, they become part of the work itself. The installation is not a backdrop but an active participant in the collection’s narrative, another expression of absence, presence and desire.
