In a glowing tribute to the art of travel and personal discovery, Paul Smith unveiled his Spring/Summer 2026 collection in an intimate, salon-style show at his Milan headquarters during Milan Fashion Week. Far from a conventional runway spectacle, the presentation offered a deeply personal voyage through Smith’s lifelong passion for exploration, vintage finds, and the storytelling power of textiles.
The collection of 30 looks evoked the image of a seasoned traveller, one who dresses with effortless charm by assembling treasures from distant markets and forgotten corners of the world. Silhouettes hinted at 1950s tailoring—cropped jackets paired with high-waisted, flat-front trousers—resulting in a relaxed, louche sophistication. This shift away from the double-pleats of previous seasons underlined the collection’s lightness and ease.
Colour was central to the narrative. A sun-drenched palette of lime green, coral, and fuchsia painted memories of faraway summers, reminiscent of hand-dyed fabrics and the golden glow of Cairo’s streets, as captured in a photo book that inspired Smith during the design process. These vivid hues were grounded by washed-out earth tones, suggesting heat, time, and the faded charm of well-worn textiles.
Prints took centre stage through a series of hand-assembled collages transformed into standout patterns on shirts, outerwear, and accessories. These collages—featuring fragments of photographs taken by Smith himself—harkened back to the designer’s early career and eye for the unexpected. The theme of pieced-together beauty continued in a double-breasted jacket adorned with applique birds and a suede-decorated leather blouson featuring floral motifs, offering tactile richness.
Accessories deepened the narrative of travel and souvenir hunting. Vintage-style hotel key fobs—crafted from eyewear acetate—dangled alongside collectible metal charms embellishing everything from belts and jewellery to berets and suiting. Bags hinted at spontaneous weekend getaways, while some models carried netted produce bags, adding a whimsical nod to market strolls. Footwear, sleek and lightweight, took cues from racing driver shoes, constructed in a thoughtful mix of leather, mesh, and suede—a subtle continuation of the collection’s collage motif.
Paul Smith SS26 was less about following trends and more about following your curiosity. Through texture, colour, and nostalgia, it reminded us that style, like travel, is best when it’s personal, unpredictable, and rich with stories.
