For FENDI Spring/Summer 2027, Maria Grazia Chiuri has decided that the body should carry the strongest voice in the conversation. Fashion has always been about the body, she acknowledges, but this collection insists on something more intimate: surrendering to emotional freedom. That idea becomes the thread running through every look, reading the desires of today’s bodies—strong and vulnerable at once, meeting one another where masculine and feminine no longer stand apart.
The collection draws its light from E.E. Cummings’ poem I like my body when it is with your body. Those words frame a necessary act of recognition, where clothing becomes a second skin, porous enough to absorb emotion. These are emotions rooted in the present, and Chiuri treats the changing shapes of time as fashion’s most compelling pursuit.
Intimacy as the starting point
The first gesture begins with underwear, for both men and women. It becomes a delicate threshold that can conceal as easily as it can reveal. Lace and embroidery elevate these pieces, while a broad palette of colours gives them a playful confidence. The body they describe is one that enjoys being seen, without losing its sense of irony.
That spirit finds an unexpected guide in Raffaella Carrà, whose place in Italian pop culture reached audiences around the world. For Chiuri, Carrà represents the instinct to overturn established rules—from the way she dressed on stage to the hierarchies of desire, and ultimately to her claim for independence in both life and thought.
The mirror becomes part of the show
The mirror, usually the surface of private recognition, takes on another role inside the show. It multiplies the bodies of Celentano, Carrà and the dancers of the electrifying performance of Prisencolinensinainciusol, turning reflection into a shared experience rather than a solitary one.
The runway itself echoes Luciano Fabro’s Cubo di specchi, placing spectators inside that same exchange. Every reflected image asks for another glance, encouraging each person to encounter someone else within the mirror’s frame.
Where every contrast belongs
Just as bodies meet, garments mingle through layered silhouettes, shifting lengths, varied cuts and contrasting textures. Gloss and matte sit together without conflict. Lightness meets weight. Silk appears beside animal print, while lace, embroidery and intricate inlays weave through the collection.
Metamorphic pieces blur their original purpose, including the dressing jacket stepping confidently into the street. Velvet meets parchment. Punk meets bourgeois restraint. Jewel shoes complete looks that refuse fixed categories.
A wardrobe without hierarchy
Nothing here follows a strict order. Men and women stand on equal ground, moving beyond inherited ideas of gendered dress. The collection celebrates the body without asking it to conform, treating clothing as an expression of encounter, freedom and recognition rather than a form of restraint.
