At Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Yohji Yamamoto once again pushed the boundaries of menswear, blending his signature oversized silhouettes with a deeply emotional message. His Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection wasn’t just about clothes – it was about armor for the soul, a reflection of internal conflict and release.
Yamamoto’s layered, oversized designs were a powerful statement of protection. Multi-padded coats and cargo pants shaped across diverse body types, creating a sense of emotional shielding. Asymmetrical cuts and deconstructed tailoring kept the looks fluid, breaking free from the rigidity of traditional masculinity. This was fashion as freedom – comfort and movement at its core, designed to empower rather than restrict.
The fabrics were equally bold – hardy wools, corduroy, and quilts evoked resilience, while mottled prints and intricate felting conjured the sensation of emotional release. The detailing – reinforced kneepads, zippered shins, and experimental metallic vests – merged military and workwear influences with a poetic twist. The result? A collection that felt both protective and transformative.
The collection’s subdued palette of blacks, grays, and neutrals was punctuated by subtle metallics and splashes of color – fleeting moments of release amid the otherwise somber tones. Each look told a story of struggle and strength, without needing to shout.
In an unexpected turn, Yamamoto’s runway featured men of various ages and body types, reinforcing a more melancholic vision of masculinity. This was about real men, in real clothes – pieces that shielded both the body and the psyche from life’s messiness.
Among the highlights were thick coveralls in multi-color splatters and patchwork coats symbolizing endurance. The hybrid mechanic-military uniforms felt like a post-apocalyptic evolution of menswear, blending functional utility with high-fashion artistry. Meanwhile, the black suits, often paired with metallic accents, hinted at a futuristic form of armor – refined, protective, and forward-thinking.
Yohji Yamamoto’s Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection was a powerful exploration of vulnerability, resilience, and emotional depth. It was fashion that spoke to the modern man – one who embraces both strength and fragility. Yamamoto once again proved that style doesn’t just protect the body; it protects the soul.
