Presented at Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris, the Issey Miyake Autumn Winter 2023/24 Collection, The Square and Beyond, revisits the convention in many creative professions that is built upon a square: a canvas, a music score, a piece of fabric… The collection engages with this rational shape and explores beyond — with original ideas and technologies — to develop garments of striking forms, introducing an unconventional aesthetic based on a new iteration of ma (the unfilled space) between the wear and the wearer.
Based on the idea of squares moving and transforming, SQUARE SCHEME is characterized by the shapes found using knitting techniques. Knitted squares are organically created by the combination of vertical and horizontal knitting structures. When the knit structures are sewn with woven, square fabrics, these irregular silhouettes are naturally created. The square pattern is then printed on the woven fabric to further emphasize the change in shape.
This series features a canopy-like shape that covers the body. CANOPY’s three-dimensional construction, which angles from side to side, is made of a soft, stretchy material with minimal seams, making its unusual structure stand out even more.
RHYTHM CHECK is inspired by the way a checkered pat tern alternates in a rhythm. The soft and three-dimensional look of the fabric is a result of intentional shrinkage. Shrinking yarn is woven into the fabric in a grid pattern before processing in high-temperature water, while the fabric is double in size. This process results in the final garment having a unique shrunken texture.
COUNTERPOINT is a seamless knit series characterized by its irregular forms created by the difference in knitting structures. By knitting the front and back in different directions, they push and pull each other, resulting in a twisted form. The stripe pattern emphasizes the direction of the knit and further accentuates the twists that wrap around the body.
RECTILINEAR is featuring a composition of rectangles in contrasting colors, horizontally knitted in a linear pattern. The angular silhouette of the pattern bounces up and down with movement, adding a touch to the softness of the knit.
RECTILINEAR: MILLED is a coat series featuring the same pattern, but knit on a Jacquard machine. The design of the coat brings out the strong qualities of the print. It is surprisingly lightweight and comfortable despite its generous volume.
SHAPED CANVAS is inspired by an unconventionally shaped painter’s canvas. This seamless knit series uses a double knitting technique that joins two pieces of fabric, with the neck and body portions knitted separately. The angular shape of the knitwear gives it a unique silhouette with contrasting colors, allowing the garment to be worn both front and back.
SQUARE is a bag series designed in a way as if it is gently and unintentionally covered by a piece of fabric, creating loose drapes as the user moves.
SQUARE ONE was the starting point of the process of making this collection. The approach of boldly printing a square on the fabric symbolizes the source of inspiration in the early stages of creation. This series is characterized by its linear form with a touch of firmness, created by the partial use of Japanese paper. These garments were designed and made in a way that produces no excess fabric during production.