In the AW23 collection dresses and bags are presented as a graphic, multicoloured, tapestry. Black and brown contrast embroideries on a leather skirt and matching jacket. Renaissance-inspired silhouettes, innovative fabrications and unexpected materials.

A puffer cape coat with ruching along the seams is made from recycled nylon. An off-the-shoulder dress cut above the knee with bishop sleeves is cut from Nappa leather—a modernist, graphic take on the Renaissance. The use of black and white contrasting fabrics accentuates the heart-shaped waists and high necklines of dresses, imbuing these historic references with a contemporary aesthetic.

Lower-impact wool gauze—a Chloé pillar fabric—delivers a subtle statement of feminine power with its ethereal quality and is used in a range of garments including capes and long dresses.

Renaissance architecture inspired a multitude of fabrications that demonstrate the Maison’s savoir-faire. A dégradé pattern of black satin diamonds is handappliquéd onto wool. A graphic material made from thin strips of black, white and yellow fabric is sewn together and is used for coats.

Trousers are assiduously constructed from intricate lattice formations of handinserted leather braids and pintucks. The boundaries of fabric development has been explored. New lace techniques have been developed for a figure-hugging dress to give it stretch and ease for the active woman. An oversized cape dress is knitted from a cashmere and silk ‘faux fur’. The panelling of dresses with horizontal and vertical lines is based on crinoline pattern pieces but engineered on the knitting machine to introduce a sense of Chloé flou and femininity into the knitwear.

The Marcie, which turns 13 this year, transcends its iconic bag silhouette and is deconstructed into a leather biker jacket and matching trousers as well as loafers. Footwear designs based on the new Raina rainboot’s Bio-based TPU sole are transformed into thigh-high styles with leather uppers. A feminine touch is brought to boyish boots in the form of a golden heel and sandals are adorned with a buckle inspired by the Chloé archives.

Leather bag designs inspired by Medieval coin purses are carried in hand. The Penelope bag, which debuted in the Summer 2023 collection, comes in box leather, suede patchwork and embellished shearling, and is finished with artisanal touches, such as braided leather and a signature metal coin closure inspired by the Maison’s jewellery archive. A new mini version for AW23 is embellished with a chain.

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Presented at Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris, the Issey Miyake Autumn Winter 2023/24 Collection, The Square and Beyond, revisits the convention in many creative professions that is built upon a square: a canvas, a music score, a piece of fabric… The collection engages with this rational shape and explores beyond — with original ideas and technologies — to develop garments of striking forms, introducing an unconventional aesthetic based on a new iteration of ma (the unfilled space) between the wear and the wearer.

Based on the idea of squares moving and transforming, SQUARE SCHEME is characterized by the shapes found using knitting techniques. Knitted squares are organically created by the combination of vertical and horizontal knitting structures. When the knit structures are sewn with woven, square fabrics, these irregular silhouettes are naturally created. The square pattern is then printed on the woven fabric to further emphasize the change in shape.

This series features a canopy-like shape that covers the body. CANOPY’s three-dimensional construction, which angles from side to side, is made of a soft, stretchy material with minimal seams, making its unusual structure stand out even more.

RHYTHM CHECK is inspired by the way a checkered pat tern alternates in a rhythm. The soft and three-dimensional look of the fabric is a result of intentional shrinkage. Shrinking yarn is woven into the fabric in a grid pattern before processing in high-temperature water, while the fabric is double in size. This process results in the final garment having a unique shrunken texture.

COUNTERPOINT is a seamless knit series characterized by its irregular forms created by the difference in knitting structures. By knitting the front and back in different directions, they push and pull each other, resulting in a twisted form. The stripe pattern emphasizes the direction of the knit and further accentuates the twists that wrap around the body.

RECTILINEAR is featuring a composition of rectangles in contrasting colors, horizontally knitted in a linear pattern. The angular silhouette of the pattern bounces up and down with movement, adding a touch to the softness of the knit.

RECTILINEAR: MILLED is a coat series featuring the same pattern, but knit on a Jacquard machine. The design of the coat brings out the strong qualities of the print. It is surprisingly lightweight and comfortable despite its generous volume.

SHAPED CANVAS is inspired by an unconventionally shaped painter’s canvas. This seamless knit series uses a double knitting technique that joins two pieces of fabric, with the neck and body portions knitted separately. The angular shape of the knitwear gives it a unique silhouette with contrasting colors, allowing the garment to be worn both front and back.

SQUARE is a bag series designed in a way as if it is gently and unintentionally covered by a piece of fabric, creating loose drapes as the user moves.

SQUARE ONE was the starting point of the process of making this collection. The approach of boldly printing a square on the fabric symbolizes the source of inspiration in the early stages of creation. This series is characterized by its linear form with a touch of firmness, created by the partial use of Japanese paper. These garments were designed and made in a way that produces no excess fabric during production.

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Alexander McQueen, under the creative direction of Sarah Burton, presents a mesmerizing Autumn Winter 2023/2024 collection that delves into the intricate anatomy of human bodies, clothing, and flowers. With a strong emphasis on tailoring, cut, proportion, and silhouette, this collection reimagines classic elements, turning them inside out and upside down. Each garment in the collection is a meticulously dissected masterpiece, showcasing the brand’s impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. Inspired by the enigmatic orchid, a symbol of love, the collection reflects both strength and vulnerability.

The Autumn Winter 2023/2024 collection by Alexander McQueen showcases the brand’s mastery of tailoring and fabric manipulation. The garments are designed to accentuate the body’s natural curves and lines, creating a powerful and elegant silhouette. The shoulders are strong, emphasizing strength and confidence, while the waists are narrow, highlighting femininity. Heeled trousers elongate the legs, providing a bold twist on traditional tailoring, and the bumster is reversed, adding a touch of avant-garde sensibility.

The collection takes inspiration from the act of dissection, as garments are slashed, sliced, and twisted, revealing glimpses of the underlying layers. This deconstructive approach creates a sense of controlled chaos, blending structure with a touch of rebellion. The juxtaposition of neat, strict volumes with explosive details adds a dynamic element to the collection, capturing the essence of the Alexander McQueen brand.

The Autumn Winter 2023/2024 collection features a diverse range of garments that embody the brand’s signature style. From corset jumpsuits and tailored jackets with upside-down lapels to deconstructed dresses and trench coats, each piece showcases the impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail synonymous with Alexander McQueen. The color palette predominantly revolves around black, white, and red, with occasional pops of beige and grey.

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The Nina Ricci Fall/Winter 2023 collection marks Harris Reed’s debut as Creative Director at the Maison. Shot through with femininity and frivolity, the collection takes its cues from the romantic drama of the Maison’s couture shows in the exuberant 1980s and 1990s era, expressed at Nina Ricci in lashings of micro-pleated tulle, bold polka dots, jewel tones, and audacious silhouettes.

For Fall, those signatures are passed through Reed’s gender-fluid lens to comprise magnetic tailoring, high-octane loungewear, extravagant outerwear and spotlight-grabbing gowns – all energized by larger-than-life accessories.

The collection is playful in proportion and silhouette, with an optimistic colour palette and youthful spirit that both nods to the archive and chimes with today’s pop-culture predilections. Tailoring, eveningwear, sportswear and denim combine in a day-to-night wardrobe proposition that fizzes with femininity.

Cocooning and floor-sweeping outerwear in faux-fur stripes and cheetah print meets its match in sequin-embellished loungewear. For evening, cropped cocktail dresses in taffeta come with tulle-pumped skirts, while gowns in polka-dot or micro-pleated tulle are adorned with outlandish bows and sport fishtail hems. Every look is elevated by bold platform heels, underlining the collection’s glamorous attitude.

Couture-inflected materials reference the refined flamboyance of the Maison’s archive, mixed in with modern-day staples: taffeta, tulle, Chantilly lace and double-faced crepe mingle with denim, leather and faux fur.

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The Moschino Women’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection encompasses aristo-punk glamour and Salvador Dalí-esque surrealism, giving rise to an original reinterpretation of the fashion house’s emblematic aesthetic canons. The runway show revolves around the spectacular distortion between oversize spikes, glittering bijoux parures and liquid-effect hemlines.

Moschino’s must-haves, including biker jackets, classic suits, logo lettering necklaces, and gold or pearl buttons seem to merge and alter in the same way as the dangling bodies and watches imagined by Dalí. A peace-symbol bag melts with each step the model takes, pocket flaps drip, houndstooth liquefies, and the buckles of bags and boots, gilded and glittering, are fancifully distorted.

These altered codes embody the Brand’s desire to defy convention and define a new punk spirit that exudes decadence. A revolutionary verve emerges powerfully in the collection: mega studs placed along shoulder seams and on the hems of skirts.

A ball gown seems to have a jewelry box spilled over the endless layers of tulle given the amount of embroidered stones and crystals. Cascades of sparkling 1920s-style fringe decorate a dazzling gown. It is a rebellion tinged with surrealism and infused with a hint of nonconformist royalty.

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“Culture is a mix of everything,” he said. A journey along the Silk Road. A melting pot of ancient and middle European civilizations and languages, a cultural wealth in a sartorial reinterpretation through a
delicate and sophisticated mix, layering colorful patterns and finishes.

The pinnacle of fabric technicality is the development of the double-faced fabric printed twice with different Icat motifs appearing on jackets, trousers, and coats illustrating the cross alliances between Asian and European Cultures. “There is no border with materials.” he said.

Pieces made of noble materials, including several types of Japanese silk, velvet and thick brocade in dark, resonant shades layered on top. Japanese denim is worked in an elevated way with refined trench and sweeping cape. “I wanted to do something unprofessional.” he said.

The tweed lining of a black coat folds in on itself to double as a new overcoat. Elsewhere, the jackets showed a restrained explosion of folded loose rectangles set in contrasting white. Large finely striped trousers interrupted below the knee to be released in floating white threads, wide skirts, superb triple-breasted jackets with bias and straps, trousers tied at the ankle with a ribbon.

This season again we have a collaboration with Japanese jewelry designer « RIEFE » accessories that completes the looks with claw cuff evoked falconry inspired by Central Europe. The shoes from show are the first collaboration with Italian brand ‘Guidi’.

The return on Y’s for MEN.
10 looks mixing with Y’s for MEN collection to unveils new work for the first time in 13 years. Inspirations of the 80’s, a younger collection, more casual and affordable. A zig zag stitches as a distinction. It comes embellished with chemises, trousers and narrow jackets, looser pants, single-breasted and checked. 39 looks in total of next level of cadences to Yamamoto’s heart

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This season, Kim Jones and the craftspeople of the FENDI ateliers continue to make couture traditions both human and approachable, light with a sense of volume, fluidity, drapery and ease for the wearer. Eschewing ‘costume’ and embracing a softer, more yielding feeling of agency for the woman in the clothing, a suppleness is sought and expressed both in terms of flexibility in how clothing is worn – seen particularly in the outer corset motif – and actuality in how it feels.

There is an idea of simplicity with hidden intricacies in the collection; much is about volume, drape and sculptural shape achieved through complex and rigorous pattern cutting, with garments often realised with only a single seam. This is a bravura achievement whispered instead of shouted in second-skin silks, alongside single-piece intricate knits and draped, neoprene tailored furs and FENDI chevron feathered shearlings, where ultimately, it is not only about the spectacle of looking but the reality of wearing.

Precision and emotion, the real and the refined are also found in Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s approach to high jewellery that exists symbiotically with the collection. In this debut proposition of one-off pieces, the idea of the couture ensemble is extended to that of jewellery. At once timeless and saying something of today, in a FENDI colour palette of exceptional white and yellow diamonds together with green, orange and pink Padparadscha sapphires and spinels. The collection of pink spinels alone, that feature in the ‘Undarum’ set, took forty years to gather together and will probably never be replicated in nature again.

The discreetly multifaceted nature of this couture collection reaches a crescendo in embroidery techniques that unite the clothing and jewellery worlds. While clutching their jewel box minaudière, the mood builds with models scattered with jewel-like embellishments or layered with a stratification of intricate stacked tonal paillettes and stones at the closing of the show. To achieve the glittering rose glow of the final look, it took 1200 hours of handwork.

The soundtrack to the show is Klaus Nomi’s ‘The Cold Song.’ Based on Henry Purcell’s English Baroque original from the seventeenth century, it too reflects the emotion and precision of the collection and of the couture itself, where the past becomes the basis for a New Wave present and future.

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Ideas that spring from the unconscious into a white space like a waking dream. A surrealist spirit grounded in a real-world sensibility. Unexpected materials, the perpetual pursuit of Paco Rabanne, emerge with new intrigue. Sensations are translated through the symbolic pillars of design: colour, form, volume, movement.

On the surface, this collection reads like an exploration of textures. What looks like fur is hairy wool. Shards of lurex appear sprinkled atop knitwear. Metal mesh seemingly morphs into leather. Gauzy mousseline studded with strass gives an eerie smoked effect, a shimmering shroud. Metallic decoration suggests the coat of a fantastical, mechanized creature. Clear crystals dangling from dresses resemble ice cubes.

In this modern material awakening, Julien Dossena channels the historic friendship between Paco Rabanne and Salvador Dalí: two Spanish visionaries linked by their radical artistic expression. From women outfitted in contemporary armour to landscapes unbound by natural laws, they created parallel and, at times, overlapping worlds that were at once magical, mystic and mysterious.

With participation from the Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, the collection features four paintings – including The Shades of Night Descending (1931) and Sun-Table (1935) – that become both distorted and dimensional through assembled panels. Extracts from the artists’ imagination show up elsewhere: a bejeweled pomegranate virtually throbs at the gathered heart of a flou dress; small telephones dangle from earlobes.

Statuesque silhouettes make a sensual impression: long and direct with shifting focal points – tied at the décolleté, exposed around the core, draping and pooling towards the ground. Austere statements that nonetheless envelop the body. Synthetic lavender, sfumato blue, ochre and almond bring subtle richness to gleaming metal and elemental black.

Interspersed throughout the sequence of looks, leather boots that fit like second skin boast reflective wedges as though floating. Pointy silver flats recall the earliest decade of Paco Rabanne, while a new retro sneaker grounds coordinated pieces with a ’90s allure. Bags revisit signature elements as evolved studies: pastilles torqued and twisting; glossy colour atop the assemblages; organic, compact shapes.

As a coda to the couturier’s legacy, the show ends with five archive creations accompanied by spoken extracts atop the soundtrack. Spanning five decades, these dresses signal the innovative craftmanship that will always define the timeless and totemic women of Paco Rabanne.

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Haute couture shapes and constructs its own temporality. A specific tempo that reflects the processes and excellence that couture demands in its creation. A time apart, meticulous, that animates memory and imagination with a dual movement: couture evolves according to a liturgical rhythm, where the past is integrated into every beat of the present. In the Atelier, there are no paper patterns, as the sketched form is morphed into a dress in the image of the imprint, embracing the body’s singularity.

Maria Grazia Chiuri pursues her ideals with this Dior haute couture autumn-winter 2023-2024 collection, which refines to perfection the sartorial elements that can be described as archetypal: the tunic, the peplum, the cape, the stole. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s encounter with Marta Roberti, an artist whose work transforms the catwalk into an art gallery, is part of this return to sacred sources. “I studied the iconographies of various goddesses, who are almost always associated with animals, and I presented myself imitating their postures, initially in a performative way, copying their poses and movements with my body, incarnating their peculiarities until I made them my own.” Thus, it is inspired by the words and approach of Marta Roberti, who draws (on) goddesses, that the Creative Director of Dior women’s lines has taken up the poetic gesture of couture merging dress and body.

Models compose a hieratic sequence as if in the steps of all the divinities who have ruled and still rule the world. A vertical silhouette, flat shoes. The colors selected are white, beige, silver and pale gold. Jackets and coats are structured by folds beneath the chest, evoking classical statues and the fluting of columns. Pearls, symbols of purity, are featured in numerous embroideries. Intertwined with silver threads they glimmer iridescently. The shimmering textures of the sixties enjoy a revival, embellishing long skirts and dresses. Wool and cashmere occupy a key place; a cape evocative of a holy garment, sometimes embroidered, enhances a variety of outfits. Pleating plays a leading role, notably present on the sleeves of men’s jackets.

By perpetuating the cult of the goddess and reinterpreting the founding emblems of antiquity, the défilé becomes a contemporary ritual, illustrating the strength and fragility of femininity, which supports and sustains the community we form. Recalling the past, it guides us towards a vision of the future endowed with sensitivity and essential attention to detail.

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Finding a new ingenious way of talking about feelings and emotions that can connect us with a country and its culture is precisely what Maria Grazia Chiuri wished to accomplish in this Dior Fall 2023 collection, with a view to explaining the collaboration, work relations and friendship linking her for many years to India and Karishma Swali, who directs the Chanakya ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft, in Mumbai. A place of exchange, study, and emancipation for many women, a laboratory to explore different types of savoir-faire that the Creative Director of Dior women’s lines has long celebrated, highlighting thus the visionary spirit of the founding-couturier.

The archives reveal Dior models created by Marc Bohan, the then Artistic Director, who traveled to India in April 1962, notably to Mumbai and Delhi, initiating conversation between France and India. For Marc Bohan, these presentations were significant events, heralding a new departure under his artistic direction: younger customers, and a more dynamic, contemporary approach to fashion and ready-to-wear.

Maria Grazia Chiuri has chosen color palettes and materials that crystalize key influences shared with Karishma Swali of Chanakya. The Creative Director of Dior women’s collections works on timeless clothing forms that have stayed intact through time, allowing her to (re)design her favorite models. A color block sequence dedicated to silks – in shades of green, yellow, pink and purple –, in homage to Marc Bohan, is embodied by sophisticated evening coats, sari-inspired straight skirts and traditional Indian cuts, as well as pants, boleros, jackets and tops: a veritable sartorial genealogy defined by different heritages and fashion cultures.

The embroidery – both protagonist and search engine, opens up all the possibilities of this craft – and becomes a tool for appraising, through the relationship between Dior and the Chanakya ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft, the multiple landscapes of India: this cartography mixes and spotlights the various techniques which, via the School’s work processes, become the realm of a woman’s legacy and an instrument at once of inventiveness and empowerment.

Geometric shapes frame in gold the silver sequins and strass; bewitching decorative motifs come forth in this kaleidoscope of colors on the silk of pajamas, blouses and dresses. The revisited toile de Jouy stands out in a vaporous palette of green, much like a camouflage magnified by elements of Indian landscapes populated by talismanic animals dear to this plural civilization.

The collection, presented in Mumbai, is the expression of a shared territory thanks to this project, which fully celebrates the collaboration between Dior and Chanakya. This creative dialogue perpetuates precious illustrations of exceptional savoir-faire, confirming the unfailing bond between France and India.

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