Issey Miyake’s Spring Summer 2024 collection is a masterful exploration of fabric, form, and the interplay between structure and fluidity. The collection is inspired by the graceful movements of a flag fluttering in the wind, capturing the essence of lightness and dynamism.

One of the standout series in the collection is “TWINING,” a woven range that showcases a remarkable weaving technique. The fabrics are light yet firm, allowing them to hold intricate, crisp twists that create a voluminous, lightweight texture. This is achieved through minute gaps strategically placed in the warp, resulting in a captivating and airy aesthetic.

The “AMBIGUOUS” knit series further exemplifies Miyake’s virtuosic approach to materiality. Crafted from high-twist cotton yarn, the garments reveal the form of the body while respecting the inherent qualities of the fabric. The front panel is knitted with yarn twisted in the same direction, naturally forming a gentle drape of soft folds. In contrast, the ribbed back panel hugs the body, creating a dynamic interplay between the two elements.

Miyake’s fascination with the interplay between form and function is also evident in the “LIGHT LEAK” print series. Featuring blurred gradients in simple silhouettes, these garments are created by deliberately exposing the film of a camera. The resulting prints retain the particles of the original photographs, lending a unique and organic quality to the designs.

The “ENVELOPING” woven series showcases Miyake’s mastery of draping and wrapping. Crafted from a combination of Japanese washi paper and polyester, the subtle luster and supple texture of the material create a depth and smoothness that accentuates the shadows of the drapes. The single-piece construction wraps around the body, adapting to each wearer and resulting in an entirely original silhouette.

Continuing the exploration of movement and materiality, the “TWISTED” woven series features a uniquely textured fabric woven with natural fibers like Japanese washi paper and linen, as well as stretched fibers. This fabric is twisted and shaped as if naturally formed over the wearer’s body, resulting in a captivating and tactile experience.

The “SHAPED MEMBRANE” woven series takes the notion of volume and comfort to new heights, with exaggerated silhouettes crafted from a lightweight, soft, and stretch-infused fabric that feels almost like a second skin.

Culminating the collection is the “FIXED IN TIME” series, which captures the essence of motion through the use of pressed fabric. The bold silhouettes with voluminous folds and angled shapes around the shoulders are the result of three-dimensional twists being flattened, creating a striking and effortless aesthetic.

Complementing the collection, Issey Miyake has collaborated with New Balance to create the MT10O footwear. Inspired by the concept of barefoot mobility, the sneakers seamlessly integrate with the sensuous physicality of the designer’s creations, offering a harmonious and holistic experience.

Issey Miyake’s Summer 2024 collection is a testament to the brand’s unwavering commitment to innovation, materiality, and the exploration of the human form. Through a masterful blend of techniques and conceptual approaches, the collection captivates with its fluid, dynamic, and deeply tactile garments, inviting the wearer to experience the joy of movement and the beauty of the unexpected.

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After-hours liberation. A soft-furnished lounge made entirely of ecru canvas, illuminated by a deconstructed disco ball. A place to lose track of time and inhibitions, with a magical mood of anticipation. Guests sit on soft furnishings by Austrian artist Lukas Gschwandtner, with show music by electronic duo Giant Swan.

The show is held at L’Observatoire de Paris, the city’s historic astronomical observatory.

Inspiration

Elevated industrial; artefacts of dressing. British artist Katerina Jebb’s work Physical Evidence of a Woman informs the collection where scanned symbols of ‘feminine dress codes’ – red stilettos, false eyelashes, lady tights – are subverted and juxtaposed with an avant-garde rawness.

“The industrial mood this season comes mostly from my passion for denim and the many ways we can manipulate this amazing fabric. It also comes from the idea of a construction site: things are unfinished,

a work in progress. I wanted to convey the beauty of that,” says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios. “We also worked with Katerina Jebb’s scan-ography series Physical Evidence of a Woman. These artefacts are something that I feel is almost lost today, they feel dated, yet they are still there. So we used them as prints and subverted them. This exploration felt timely with where we are in fashion right now: lines between genders are blurred, there are no labels anymore.”

Fabrics

Denim elevated to artworks, covered in white paint and crackled clay-like treatments. 5-pocket codes are reimagined as mini-skirts and denim jackets. Leather is crinkled, moulded, and pulled around the body, adorned with pockets and belt loop details as a subtle homage to denim as an industry. Layered transparent fabrics reveal and conceal. There is a juxtaposition in weights; heavily plaster-treated pieces contrast with light, airy silks and delicate feathers.

Colour palette

White and greys with a cement, plastery tone contrasted with strong signal colours: vivid blue, green, and red. Pastel pinks and blues meet purples.

Silhouette

Floating and sculptural, draped and couturesque, slightly undone. Skirts appear levitating, low on the waist, as if hanging off the body. Monochrome looks and exaggerated elongated sleeves contrasted with micro lengths. There is a feeling of speed and spontaneity, the expression of putting clothes on fast: a bra attached to a t-shirt and sweaters patchworked together to become a slit skirt, bags nonchalantly attached to garments.

Prints

Using a scanning technique, Katerina Jebb interrogates and documents objects – hosiery, stilettos, false eyelashes – traditionally codified as women’s essentials. The artworks appear as prints on dresses and tops. Elsewhere, tea towel-like checks are reimagined with ruffles and pom poms on dresses.

Accessories

Minimalistic and understated: knee-high transparent socks alongside oversized futuristic sunglasses in silver and black.

Footwear

The stiletto pump is the season’s hero shoe and is the subject of Katerina Jebb’s artwork. Emulating an exaggerated version of the court shoe, it also appears on a dress and plays a central role in the collection’s inspiration and show. A studded glossy strappy wedge shoe counterbalances it, adding toughness.

Bags

The Multipocket, first introduced for FW23, returns in a bright glossy red, a brushed icy blue, and shiny brown leather. The compact shoulder bag’s shape references tool belts and vintage camera bags. A dimple-shaped bowling bag is introduced. Elsewhere, glossy structured studded bags, reminiscent of miniature disco balls.

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For the Spring Summer 2024 Women’s Collection, Givenchy reflects on a collective comprehension of elegance as shaped by the genetics of its own heritage and a present day desire for simplicity. Through his instinctive approach to the Maison, Artistic Director Matthew M Williams composes through technical notes a contemporary grammar of elegance mirrored in the ease of the real wardrobe mentality of the women who surround him.

Silhouettes suspend the rigid and the relaxed. Architectonic hourglass tailoring in gentleman’s wools is sculpted with half moon curves along necklines and hemlines. Jackets and dresses with plunging or winged open backs evoke the language of haute couture. Conversely, softly structured double breasted blazers cut an enveloping frame echoed in contemporary takes on opera coats constructed in delicate duchesse satin. The skirt suit is re invigorated with pedestaling ankle length skirts and flight jackets.

Formalwear interprets the season’s sculptural lines and flower motifs in rosette cocktail dresses and taffeta or satin gowns swirled into rose formations. Diaphanous chiffon dresses epitomise the collection’s draping. Crystal chokers, hoop earrings, ear cuffs and rings are ornamented with single pearl pendants, mirrored in classic pearl necklaces. Another choker fuses crystal encrustation with Cuban chains, while rings are festooned with metal roses. Hair-comb headbands transform into Alice bands in gold or silver finishings.

The filtrage employed in dresses is evoked in pointed stilettos encased by mesh overlay, which stretches into a boot silhouette with an ankle strap. They feature in leather and crystal with black or pastel mesh. Wrapped around a pointed mule, the collection materials of mud silk, translucent fabric and leather creating a flower-like embellishment. A draped, twisted peep-toe mule riffs on the motif of ruching, while the signature Shark Lock boot is reinterpreted in an open-toe stiletto version in stretch leather. As a nod to classic elegance, the minimal d’Orsay pointed pump enhances the collection’s sleek silhouette.

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The dialogue between poetry and reality continues in FENDI Couture this season. Eschewing costume and embracing pragmatism, it is an amalgam realised seamlessly by the supreme skills of the craftspeople of the FENDI ateliers: from embroiderers to tailors, pattern cutters to leather workers, dressmakers to furriers. The FENDI approach to the person wearing couture is to reaffirm their humanity; they are always ‘someone’ rather than ‘something.’

From simplicity in geometry to primal pull of croco, a ‘human futurism’ travels through the collection, conflating constants of the past to make the present and the future. Here structure becomes decoration and decoration, structure.

Beginning with a new, ‘Scatola’ silhouette – meaning ‘box’ – and ending on the same, precision geometric pattern cutting in the flou creates new volumes with lightness and structure in fabrics like silk gazar. While the tailleur follows the form of the female body through rigorous cut, ergonomically embracing the wearer in traditionally masculine tailoring fabrics such as super kid mohair. Realised in the finest cashmere and vicuna yarns, elevated rib knit dresses elegantly swaddle with knotted ‘Shibari’ harnesses integral to the silhouette. Supple croco travels through the entire collection, encompassing clothing and accessories while exerting an instinctive draw. Each approach optimises lightness, sinuousness and movement, gleaned from the discipline of dance.

Yet it is perhaps in the plethora of intensely worked embroideries that decoration and structure truly become entwined within the collection and appear almost as a future skin. At their most startling, a splicing and dicing of the DNA of the natural and the manmade world takes place in the embroideries. For example, a new form of feather-like, all-over fringe appears as a new kind of pelt. Organically shaped, ultra-light and fluidly contoured by rigorous yet delicate hand embroidery, it sinuously moves with the wearer. 

After last season’s extension of the idea of the ‘couture ensemble’ to fine jewellery, in this collection, the idea of fine jewellery enters the realm of precious practical objects. In ‘Singular Vision’ fine eyewear, designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, FENDI Artistic Director of Jewellery, measurements are garnered through facial scans with eyewear structures tailored to the individual and realised in 18k white gold and white diamonds. These can be sunglasses, spectacles or simply used for enhancement and adornment.

This notion of precious practicality is also extended to the handbags in the collection – a series of bespoke Baguette bags. Echoing the clothing materials – from mink-lined supple crocodile to fringed and fluid embroideries – FENDI Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear, Silvia Venturini Fendi, approaches the Baguette bags as sumptuous, personal objects that go from Nano to Large.

There is also the introduction of the FENDI Gems Baguette bags on catwalk, with intense craftsmanship and precious materials. The show features a Mini Baguette bag with hardware accomplished in 18k white gold and white diamond-pave-encrusted buckle and platinum leaf applied to croco.

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Tod’s Creative Director, Walter Chiapponi, has created a collection that represents the culmination of a long search for essential design and the quality of Italian craftsmanship. With all decoration eliminated, the construction of the garments relies on cutting, volumes, and the quality of materials. The reference to men’s wardrobe and 1990s minimalism is revisited with a distinctly feminine attitude, where each piece of traditional tailoring acquires softness and fluidity.

The dresses, with wide pleated trousers and collarless jackets, are unlined and deconstructed in lightweight fabrics. The omnipresent vest becomes a feminine gesture, sensual against bare skin. The trench coat, an essential element in the Tod’s wardrobe, is presented in ethereal fabrics and lightweight, colorful leather.

Fresh is the blouson shirt, in lightweight cotton or soft nappa leather. The surprising poplin T-shirt with kimono sleeves, worn with a large multi-pocket belt, completes many looks. The patchwork pleated skirt in plissé fabric is seductive, while the tactile and artisanal crochet-effect knitwear stands out in bold contrasting colors.

The monochrome of natural tones – ecru, camel, tobacco, burnt – reminiscent of Tod’s renowned leather goods, is interrupted by touches of lime green. The fabrics are always lightweight and soft: viscose, linen gauze, transparent cool wool, incredibly soft nappa leather.

The bags that complete each look have eliminated all decoration, becoming cult objects essential in their determined shapes, constructed from fine leathers. The iconic Di Bag is seamless and elongated, and the T Timeless bags are presented in embossed leather. The new Tod’s T-Box bag, geometric and structured, is made of glossy leather and closed with a metal T. The new shopping bag is a fabric and leather sack that molds to the wearer’s body.

The craftsmanship of Italian footwear has always been at the center of Tod’s research, nurturing tradition and development for new generations. This season, the traditionally masculine loafer is the starting point for exploring a decidedly feminine universe. The iconic Gommino is the absolute protagonist, celebrated in the bubble version with precious leathers. Completing the collection are the ballet flat, the sabot, and a new woven sandal, presented with a small minimalist heel and soft shades.

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Naturally chic, charismatic and of a MOONLIGHT SHADOW, the ELIE SAAB woman follows Mediterranean vibes in pursuit of lavish parties that flourish in her nocturnal glow. She effortlessly moves through the tinkering glasses and lounging crowds, across dancefloors to blueish-sparkling pool sides reflecting ELIE SAAB READY-TO-WEAR SS24.

Breezy textures in vivacious colour and polka-dot interpretations accentuate the energetic lines and casual contours of simple silhouettes. Strong monochromatic cocktails of Cosmopolitan Pink bring a burst of flavour to cotton denim safari ensembles and wide legged pant suits. Coral Spritz embroidered tulle mingles with delicate lace, in conversations about sheer youthful bralettes, camisoles and long bodycon skirts with intricate trims of subtle fizz.

The incandescent ELIE SAAB woman is always ready for moonlight gatherings in radiant day looks that bring blissful glimmers to the evening. Flowing open-back summer dresses with scalloped hemlines are garden-fresh in oversized white English lace. Wisps of citrus organza flowers flourish from the monochromatic hemlines of billowing silk bomber jackets. Chunky tromp-l’oeil sapphires, rubies and platinum chains trace a white kaftan with a sleek cape.

Beaded shots of Spritz and Gin Blue cascade down a-symmetrical form embracing gowns with playful geometric cut-outs. Of course, the party is never complete without raffia leather platforms, mini top-handle bags and extravagant gemstone jewellery.

The ELIE SAAB woman is colourful, vibrant and abundant in effervescent spirit. She fills the everyday with an everlasting light that overflows to illuminate the MOONLIGHT SHADOW.

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Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative Director of Dior women’s lines, dreamed up this spring-summer 2024 ready-to-wear collection starting from a reflection on the meaning of the present. A present in which past and future must coexist simultaneously.

In this convergency, open to many interpretations, she continues to explore the relationship between femininity and feminism, driven by the conviction that fashion has, more than ever, a responsibility to help women realize their worth and express their differences. She is therefore interested in all the rebels who have asserted their independence in the face of a masculine world and challenged its system.

These include witches, custodians of the knowledge of the mother-goddess, who pass on the science of plants and respect the time of nature. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s creations for Dior reveal a medieval style, an architectural silhouette, where the jacket is of masculine mode. Certain fabrics bear witness to a materiality, a memory of time and an in-depth knowledge of the work of Italian artist Alberto Burri; tears, lacerations, and combustions become a constitutive, performative element of the garment.

The colors are those of ash, chamomile, and love potions. The Mille-fleurs, emblematic of Dior, is transformed into a dark motif, a contrasting floral X-ray. Phases of the moon, suns announcing the seasons, medicinal herbs, and fantastical animals are all part of this iconic design, and of the embroidery also at times.

Knitwear plays a tremendous role: it accompanies and caresses the curves of the body, enveloping without constricting, it is warm, sexy. A very light, metallic sweater alludes to chainmail.

The monumental, immersive NOT HER art piece, by Elena Bellantoni, perpetuates this refusal of all the clichés that confine women to predefined categories. The video installation, occupying all the walls of the show’s scenography, uses the analog split-flap device: we see a succession of female figures (including the artist herself) reworked by Elena Bellantoni, in a pop spirit, using imagery from sexist adverts and counterpoint phrases to respond to the dominant stereotype: “it’s not her, she’s no longer all that”.

This new collection thus restores the idea that the body/clothing relationship is set in the context of the times and not in the time of one day or nostalgia.

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Once again Yohji Yamamoto has captivated the audience with his Spring Summer 2024 collection. The setting was familiar to regular show-goers: an evening show at the luxurious Hotel de Ville in Paris, complete with a long raised white runway and models gracefully strutting at a glacial pace. As expected, the designer stayed true to his signature formula of an all-black color palette, proving that he still has nothing to prove after four decades in the fashion industry.

His latest collection featured glimpses of his iconic designs, such as the little black jacket, front-buttoned evening dress, and sculptural volumes. However, there were also unexpected elements, like playful polka dots, adding a touch of whimsy to the otherwise serious and monochromatic collection.

With his precise and exacting palette, Yamamoto delivered a sensual and rebellious collection that stayed true to his classical references and tailoring traditions. One of the highlights of the show was Yamamoto’s skillful deconstruction and reassembly of looks, creating fresh and innovative proposals. From demure skirt suits to sensual black gowns, each piece had its own unique twist. The collection also featured tailored jackets with peak shoulders, heart-shaped chain belts, and cinched waists, adding further interest and dimension.

Standout pieces, such as a diaphanous skirt suit with a sheer double-breasted jacket adorned with painterly polka dots, perfectly captured the designer’s femininity and practicality amidst an otherwise abstract collection.

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Sophisticated, spontaneous, intelligent… the key adjectives to describe the women Lorenzo Serafini imagined while designing his Spring/Summer 2024 collection for the Philosophy brand.

In line with a creative journey that began a year ago, the Designer unveils a lineup rooted in the desire to create something real and credible. Beauty, elegance, and femininity remain the primary goals, achieved through work that, leaving out a more decorative vein, focuses on design, consistently guided by a skilled and conscious creative hand.

A contemporary version of the female protagonist from the cult movie Basic Instinct, played by Sharon Stone, inspires the strong, direct personalities envisioned by Lorenzo Serafini. When worn, the clothes come to life with grace and naturalness. A harmoniously balanced play of contrasts helps communicate a message of contemporary sophistication and coolness. Essentiality is celebrated consistently, leaving room for imagination and fantasy.

Tailoring is deconstructed and airy. Layering, executed with an ever delicate hand, adds an interesting touch. Women’s draped jersey dresses tell of a spontaneous elegance that is never contrived.

The lightness of the fabrics, including wool voile, cotton and linen canvas, impalpable nylon and cotton poplin, is enhanced by the palette that expresses the Designer’s refined and delicate color sensibility.

Tones of pistachio, banana and pink alternate with warm, enveloping chocolate tones and graphic touches of black. Finding a place in the collection is a pattern of irregular stripes with a painterly feel that seem to have faded from the sun – memories of an endless summer.

Adding a sophisticated touch to the look, the soft clutches, offered in a small and large version, reveal a retro-inspired design, while the footwear, developed in collaboration with London-based shoe brand Malone Souliers, underscores the spirit of the collection characterized by essential yet seductive femininity.

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The Summer 2024 collection is a study in family, freedom and fluidity – exploring Stella’s roots in music, her parents’ relationship and shared wardrobes, and the care for our fellow creatures and Mother Earth they instilled in her.

Black and stone pinstripe tailcoats are styled over ruffled shirts and diamond-encrusted bodysuits. Lead-free crystals adorn hot pants and cummerbunds over iconic Savile Row tailoring, while diamond fringe is dotted across organic cotton wide denim.

A tuxedo story is told across cropped and corseted tailcoats, first in graphic black and white followed by roomy lurex tailoring in soft mineral blue, peach and ivory canvas. Bibs feature on organic cotton poplin shirting and denim jackets, with matching cummerbund inserts.

Inspired by Paul and Linda McCartney’s life on tour, vintage Wings merch graphics are revisited on organic cotton t-shirts. They sit under a varsity jacket featuring the work of artist Hajime Sorayama, with a limited-edition capsule launching in December 2023. Stage looks are reinterpreted as metallic brocade tailoring, alongside black and crystal-encrusted waistcoats styled over poplin ruffled shirting.

Silhouette is focal, with balloon shapes on gowns, mini-dresses and bomber jackets in NONA Source repurposed silk taffetas and forest-friendly viscose satins. Whimsical polka dots appear throughout, featured on floor-length wrap dresses, asymmetric mini dresses and ruffle-skirted dresses in chiffon. Bugle beads embellishments decorate nude forest-friendly viscose satin bustier dresses and mint green organic silk crepe mini dresses, as well as the busts of off-the-shoulder maxi dresses in black taffeta. Iconic Stella painted florals bloom on draped forest-friendly viscose maxi and asymmetric mini dresses.

Proportions shift with cropped and maxi biker jackets in a vegan alternative to animal leather, alongside voluminous and fitted cotton canvas olive trench coats. Archival Stella corsets inform lacing across denim, hot pants and trousers in Alter Mat. Lightweight waffle knit tops and reference underpinnings, with fabric and delicate hand-crocheted trimmings. Strapless gowns cut from a body-revealing tulle with appliqué florals are made from deadstock fabrics, while white flapper dresses are crafted from parachute organic silk. The collection finishes with ballooning ruffles on floor-length maxi dresses playing with polka dot transparency and opacity in soft canary yellow, mint and nude organic silk crepe. Evening editions are cut from black forest-friendly viscose satin, bursting with bubble volumes at the sleeves.

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